Leopard Gecko Care Sheet: Husbandry, Habitat & Wild Behavior

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are one of the most popular reptiles in the pet trade—and for good reason. With their docile personalities, hardy nature, and wide variety of morphs, these nocturnal lizards are ideal for both beginners and experienced keepers. But to truly provide the best care, it helps to understand not only their captive needs but also how they behave in the wild.

🌍 Natural Habitat & Wild Behavior

Leopard geckos are native to arid and semi-arid regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Iran, where they live in rocky deserts and grasslands. Unlike many other geckos, they are terrestrial, preferring to stay close to the ground where they shelter under rocks, in burrows, or among dry vegetation.

These geckos are crepuscular to nocturnal, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk. In the wild, they regulate their body temperature by retreating into cooler, humid microclimates during the heat of the day and emerging at night to hunt insects.

Interestingly, wild leopard geckos have been observed living in loose breeding colonies. These are not tightly social groups, but rather small, overlapping territories where multiple females may share shelter and foraging zones. Males are territorial and will compete for access to receptive females, especially during breeding season.

🏡 Enclosure & Setup

To mimic their natural environment, a minimum 20-gallon long tank is recommended for one adult. However, larger enclosures (36x18 or 40-gallon breeder tanks) are preferred, especially for enrichment and temperature gradients.

🌱 Substrate

Choosing the right substrate is critical for both the health and comfort of your leopard gecko. In the wild, they roam over compacted earth, clay, and sand, and we can safely replicate that with the right materials.

✅ Recommended Substrates:

• Washed play sand (like Quikrete brand) — safe when used alone or mixed with organic topsoil
• Excavator clay or a sand/soil mix — allows for natural digging and burrowing behavior
• Paper towels — ideal for hatchlings, quarantines, or medical setups

🚫 Avoid:

• Calcium-based sand — can cause impaction and alkalinity issues if ingested
• Reptile carpet — traps bacteria, holds odor, and can fray, damaging claws or causing toe injuries

Proper substrate helps with thermoregulation, reduces stress, and supports natural behaviors like digging. Always spot-clean daily and perform full substrate changes or refresh bioactive layers monthly.

🔥 Heating & Lighting

Leopard geckos are ectothermic and need a thermal gradient to regulate their body temperature.

Primary heat sources include:

• Under-tank heater (UTH) with thermostat (most common and effective)
• Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) for ambient warmth
• Low-wattage basking bulb to gently warm surfaces (especially helpful in cooler rooms)

Temperature zones:

• Warm side: 88–92°F
• Cool side: 75–80°F
• Nighttime temps: Should not drop below 68°F

UVB Lighting:

While not required, low-level UVB (2.0–5.0 range) is safe to use and may offer subtle health benefits such as calcium processing and day/night cycle regulation. However, studies on UVB use for leopard geckos are still inconclusive. If you choose to use UVB, ensure your gecko has shaded areas and a proper photoperiod of 10–12 hours.

Use digital thermometers with probes and thermostats to ensure all heating elements are safe and effective.

🍽 Diet & Supplements

Leopard geckos are obligate insectivores, meaning they require live insect prey for proper nutrition. A varied diet supports healthy growth, digestion, and immune response.

✅ Best Insect Options & Why:

• Dubia roaches: Highly nutritious, soft-bodied, and easy to digest. Great staple feeder.
• Crickets: Readily available and good for enrichment due to their movement, but can be noisy and smelly.
• Mealworms: Acceptable in moderation, but avoid for small juveniles as their tough exoskeleton can cause impaction.
• Black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms): High in calcium and very digestible.
• Silkworms and hornworms: Great for hydration and variety, but more expensive.
• Waxworms and superworms: High in fat, best used as occasional treats.

⚠️ Avoid:

• Wild-caught bugs (due to pesticide risk)
• Overfeeding mealworms or large prey that can lead to impaction
• Feeder insects that are larger than the space between the gecko’s eyes

🧂 Supplements:

• Calcium without D3: Offered in a dish at all times
• Calcium with D3: Lightly dust insects 2–3 times/week
• Multivitamin: Once per week for balanced micronutrient intake

💡 Why Variety Matters:

Just like in the wild, leopard geckos thrive when they eat a mix of insects. Feeding a single feeder type long-term may lead to nutritional deficiencies. Variety keeps them mentally stimulated and helps mimic their natural foraging behavior.

💛 Bonding With Your Gecko

Building trust with a new leopard gecko takes time, patience, and consistency. These are individual animals, and while some are more social than others, most can become calm and handleable with gentle care.

Bonding Tips:

• Give them a few days to settle in before handling
• Start with hand-feeding or letting them walk over your hand inside the enclosure
• Handle them low to the ground for safety
• Limit handling to 5–10 minutes at a time during early bonding
• Avoid grabbing from above, which can trigger a prey response

Over time, many leopard geckos will recognize their keepers, especially during feeding time, and become comfortable being held.

🩺 Health Concerns to Watch For

Leopard geckos are hardy, but like all reptiles, they can develop health issues if care is improper.

Common Signs of Illness or Stress:

• Lack of appetite or sudden weight loss
• Sunken eyes or lethargy
• Retained shed (especially around toes)
• Impaction (straining, swelling, no bowel movement)
• Mouth rot or swollen gums
• Visible bones at tail base (sign of malnutrition or parasites)
• Limping or stuck toes/claws
• Bubbling or clicking when breathing (possible respiratory infection)

Preventative Tips:

• Keep enclosure clean
• Use a thermostat for all heat sources
• Quarantine new animals
• Schedule vet visits with an exotic/reptile vet if symptoms arise

🧠 Final Thoughts

Understanding leopard geckos’ natural tendencies and nutritional needs helps us give them better lives in captivity. By replicating their environment, offering a healthy diet, and building trust through patience, you can enjoy your gecko’s company for 15–20+ years.

Whether you’re a first-time keeper or starting a breeding colony, Happy Scales & Tails Exotics is here to help with trusted advice, ethically bred animals, and quality supplies.

🌿 Crested Gecko Care Sheet: Tree-Dwelling Charmers of the Tropics

Crested geckos (Correlophus ciliatus), affectionately known as “cresties,” are one of the most popular pet reptiles in the world. With their stunning patterns, expressive eyelashes, and docile personalities, they’re great for beginners and experienced keepers alike. Native to New Caledonia, these arboreal lizards thrive in tropical forests and do well in carefully maintained enclosures that mimic their natural environment.

🌍 Natural Habitat & Behavior

Crested geckos originate from the rainforests of New Caledonia, a small island in the South Pacific. In the wild, they are arboreal and nocturnal, spending their nights climbing trees and hunting for insects, nectar, and fruit. During the day, they hide in dense foliage or tree hollows to avoid predators and heat.

Cresties are solitary and do not require social interaction with others of their kind. In the wild, they come together only briefly to mate. Male geckos are territorial and will fight if housed together, while females may tolerate each other if space and resources are sufficient—but cohabitation in captivity is not recommended unless for short-term breeding in well-monitored conditions.

🏡 Enclosure & Setup

Minimum Enclosure Size:

• Single adult: 18x18x24” vertical terrarium
• Juvenile: 12x12x18” or smaller to help them find food
• Best options: Exo Terra, Zoo Med, or custom PVC enclosures with front access

Decor & Layout:

• Include lots of vertical climbing options: cork bark, vines, branches, and fake or live plants
• Provide multiple hiding spots at various heights
• Crested geckos love secure, dark places to rest during the day

Humidity:

• Keep humidity between 60–80%
• Mist 1–2 times per day and allow a drying period between mistings
• Use a hygrometer to monitor levels

Temperature:

• Ideal range: 72–78°F
• Can tolerate brief drops to 65°F and highs near 82°F
• No basking light is required, but a ceramic heat emitter or low-wattage heat bulb can be used if your room drops below 68°F

Lighting:

• UVB is optional but safe; a 2.0–5.0 UVB bulb can provide a day/night rhythm and support calcium metabolism
• If using UVB, ensure there are shaded areas

🌱 Substrate

✅ Best options:

• Coconut fiber (Eco Earth, compressed blocks)
• ABG mix for bioactive setups
• Sphagnum moss and leaf litter to retain humidity
• Paper towels for hatchlings or quarantine setups

Avoid loose sand, bark chips, or anything that can cause impaction or mold in a moist environment.

🍽 Diet & Feeding

Crested geckos are omnivores that eat fruit, nectar, and insects in the wild. In captivity, they thrive on commercial meal replacement powders (MRPs), paired with occasional live insects.

🥣 Commercial Diets (Staple):

• Offer a complete powdered gecko diet like Pangea, Repashy, or Lugarti
• Mix with water into a ketchup-like consistency
• Feed 3–5 times a week in a shallow dish or elevated feeding ledge

🦗 Live Insects (Supplemental):

• Feed 2–3 times per week:
• Dubia roaches
• Crickets
• Black soldier fly larvae
• Silkworms
• Dust insects lightly with calcium + D3 once or twice weekly
• Insects should be appropriately sized (no larger than the space between the gecko’s eyes)

🧠 Why Variety Matters:

Feeding a range of foods mimics their wild diet, enhances enrichment, and ensures a full range of nutrients. Too much reliance on one food source can lead to deficiencies or picky eating behavior.

💛 Bonding With Your Gecko

Crested geckos are generally calm and handleable, though they prefer being observed rather than handled frequently. Bonding is possible with time, patience, and gentle handling.

Tips for Building Trust:

• Let your gecko adjust for the first week with minimal interaction
• Start by offering food from tongs or a spoon
• Handle them over a soft surface in case of jumping (they love to leap!)
• Limit early handling sessions to 5–10 minutes
• Always support their body and avoid grabbing from above

With regular, calm interaction, cresties often become curious and comfortable with gentle human presence.

🩺 Health Concerns to Watch For

Crested geckos are fairly hardy, but improper husbandry can lead to health issues. Early detection is key.

🚨 Signs of Illness:

• Droopy tail or lethargy
• Rapid weight loss or refusal to eat
• Retained shed on toes or tail tip
• Swollen jaw (potential metabolic bone disease)
• Rubbing face or excessive skin loss
• Constipation or abnormal droppings

🛠 Preventative Tips:

• Use proper supplementation
• Maintain correct humidity and temperature
• Spot-clean daily, deep-clean monthly
• Provide UVB if you’re not feeding calcium with D3 regularly
• Monitor weight and appetite weekly

If your crestie is showing any of the above signs, consult an exotics/reptile veterinarian immediately.

🧠 Final Thoughts

Crested geckos are fascinating, low-maintenance companions that thrive in a well-set-up vertical habitat. With the right diet, humidity, and care, they can live 15–20 years in captivity. Whether you’re new to reptiles or adding to your collection, cresties are a fun and rewarding species to keep.

🐉 Bearded Dragon Care Sheet: The Bold & Curious Desert Companion

Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are beloved for their friendly nature, quirky personalities, and dinosaur-like appearance. Native to the dry outback regions of Australia, these reptiles make engaging pets when their unique needs are met. Whether you’re a new keeper or a seasoned herper, this guide will help you raise a healthy, happy beardie.

🌍 Natural Habitat & Behavior

Bearded dragons are native to the arid scrublands, woodlands, and deserts of central and eastern Australia. They are diurnal (active during the day) and spend much of their time basking on rocks, climbing branches, or burrowing in sand to escape the heat.

In the wild, they are solitary, territorial lizards. Males especially will display head-bobbing, puffing, and arm-waving to establish dominance or attract mates. In captivity, these behaviors still occur and are a sign of their intelligent social instincts.

🏡 Enclosure & Setup

Minimum Enclosure Size:

• Adult: 4x2x2 ft (120-gallon equivalent)
• Juvenile: 40-gallon breeder tank, with plans to upgrade

Best Enclosure Types:

• PVC enclosures (hold heat/humidity well)
• Glass terrariums with screen tops
• Wood-framed or melamine cages with proper ventilation

Decor & Layout:

• Branches and logs for climbing
• Rock platforms or basking stones
• Multiple hides and open basking zones
• Non-toxic live or artificial plants

🌡 Heat & Lighting

Bearded dragons are ectothermic sun-lovers. Proper lighting and heat are crucial for their digestion, behavior, and overall health.

Heat Zones:

• Basking spot: 100–110°F
• Warm side: 90–95°F
• Cool side: 75–85°F
• Night temps: Can safely drop to 65°F

Lighting Setup:

• UVB tube bulb (T5 HO 10.0 or Arcadia 12%) spanning at least 2/3 of the enclosure
• Basking bulb or halogen floodlight for heat
• Set a 12-hour light/dark cycle with timers
• Avoid compact coil UVB bulbs — they are too focused and may harm vision

Thermometers and Thermostats:

Use digital thermometers with probes on both the basking and cool side. A thermostat for nighttime heating (e.g., ceramic heat emitter) is recommended.

🌱 Substrate

✅ Recommended Substrates:

• Washed play sand or excavator clay (especially for adults)
• Topsoil/sand mix for naturalistic or bioactive setups
• Paper towels or non-adhesive shelf liner for juveniles or quarantine setups

🚫 Avoid:

• Calcium sand (impaction risk)
• Reptile carpet (traps bacteria and frays, causing claw damage)
• Wood chips (may mold or be accidentally ingested)

🍽 Diet & Supplements

Bearded dragons are omnivores, requiring both insects and greens in their diet. Their nutritional needs change as they age:

Juveniles (under 12 months):

• 80% insects / 20% greens
• Feed 2–3 times per day

Adults:

• 80% greens / 20% insects
• Feed daily, alternating between salads and insects

🦗 Insects to Feed:

• Dubia roaches (staple feeder)
• Crickets (good variety but can be noisy/smelly)
• Black soldier fly larvae
• Silkworms, hornworms (hydration-rich)
• Waxworms and superworms (treats only)

⚠ Never feed wild insects due to pesticide risk.

🥬 Greens & Vegetables:

• Mustard, turnip, and collard greens
• Dandelion greens
• Squash, bell peppers, carrots (in moderation)
• Occasional fruit: blueberries, mango, strawberries (as treats)

🚫 Avoid spinach, iceberg lettuce, and rhubarb.

💊 Supplements:

• Calcium without D3: 5x/week for adults
• Calcium with D3: 2x/week
• Multivitamin: 1x/week

Provide supplements by dusting insects or sprinkling on salad. Water should always be available in a shallow dish, though many beardies prefer to drink from misted greens or soaks.

💛 Bonding With Your Bearded Dragon

Bearded dragons are known for forming bonds with their keepers. Many will enjoy basking on your shoulder or exploring under supervision.

Tips for Socializing:

• Start with gentle, short sessions in a secure area
• Always approach from the front or side—never from above
• Offer hand-feeding to build trust
• Watch for signs of stress (black beard, puffing, running)

Handle your dragon a few minutes daily to build familiarity. Most will come to recognize their keepers and may even seek out attention.

👥 Cohabitation: Females and Bonded Pairs

Bearded dragons are naturally solitary, but in captivity, some females or bonded male/female pairs can live together peacefully under the right conditions. When done responsibly, cohabitation can provide mental stimulation and a sense of companionship for compatible individuals.

✅ Cohabitation Can Work When:

• Both dragons are close in size and age
• The enclosure is large (minimum 4x2x2 ft, ideally larger)
• There are multiple basking spots, hides, and food/water dishes
• You provide daily observation to monitor for stress or dominance

👩‍❤️‍👩 Female-Female Pairs or Groups:

• Often the most stable arrangement
• Can form “social bonds” where they bask together and interact calmly
• Watch for minor posturing, which is normal—as long as it doesn’t escalate

💑 Bonded Male-Female Pairs:

• Some pairs develop a strong bond and live together peacefully long-term
• Male behavior may become aggressive during breeding season, so it’s best to house separately when mating is not desired
• Always monitor for signs of chasing, biting, or dominance

🚫 Avoid Housing:

• Two males – almost always results in aggression
• Dragons of significantly different sizes – can lead to bullying or injury
• Any dragons showing signs of resource guarding or chronic stress

Even peaceful cohabiting dragons should have the option to retreat to private spaces and be fed separately when needed. Done right, housing compatible dragons together can create positive social interaction and reduce boredom.

🩺 Health Concerns to Watch For

Bearded dragons are hardy but can develop issues if husbandry is poor.

🛑 Warning Signs:

• Lethargy or loss of appetite
• Sunken eyes or dehydration
• Runny or foul-smelling stools
• Swollen jaw or limbs (possible MBD)
• Labored breathing, wheezing
• Undigested food or impaction (often from improper substrate or feeders)
• Retained shed, especially on toes and tail

🛠 Preventative Care:

• Regular baths 1–2 times per week
• UVB replacement every 6–12 months
• Routine fecal exams (check for parasites)
• Maintain proper heat, lighting, and diet
• Schedule vet visits with an exotic/reptile specialist if concerns arise

🧠 Final Thoughts

Bearded dragons are curious, hardy, and highly interactive reptiles that thrive in a well-managed environment. With proper care, they can live 10–15 years, offering a long-lasting bond and endless entertainment.

At Happy Scales & Tails Exotics, we’re committed to helping you raise healthy reptiles with ethical husbandry, trusted products, and expert advice.

🐸 White’s Tree Frog Care Sheet: Hardy Climbers With Big Personalities

White’s Tree Frogs (Litoria caerulea), also known as Australian Dumpy Tree Frogs, are beloved for their expressive faces, vibrant colors, and hardy nature. Native to Australia, Indonesia, and Papua New Guinea, they’re one of the best frogs for beginner amphibian keepers and a delight for experienced herpers.

With their chill temperament, ability to be gently handled (rare for amphibians), and humorous personalities, they’re a favorite in homes and classrooms alike.

🌍 Natural Habitat & Behavior

In the wild, White’s Tree Frogs live in tropical and subtropical environments, including rainforests, woodlands, and even human dwellings. They are arboreal and nocturnal, climbing high into the trees by night and resting in cool, moist crevices by day.

In captivity, they display similar habits—resting in foliage or glass corners during the day, then becoming active at night to explore and hunt. Their calm personalities and unique behaviors make them fascinating pets.

🏡 Enclosure & Setup

Minimum Enclosure Size:

• 1 adult: 18x18x24”
• 2–3 adults: 24x18x24” or larger
• Best enclosures: Exo Terra, Zoo Med, or vertical PVC terrariums

Enclosure Setup:

• Emphasis on vertical space for climbing
• Include cork bark, vines, branches, and foliage (real or fake)
• Provide elevated hides and platforms
• Maintain good airflow while retaining humidity

🌱 Substrate

✅ Best Substrates:

• Coconut fiber (Eco Earth)
• ABG mix for bioactive setups
• Sphagnum moss and leaf litter to retain humidity

🚫 Avoid:

• Gravel, bark chips, or any loose substrate that can be swallowed during feeding (impaction risk)
• Dry or dusty substrates that disrupt skin moisture and shedding

💧 Humidity & Water

• Maintain humidity at 50–70%
• Mist the enclosure once or twice daily
• Provide a large, shallow dechlorinated water dish
• Replace water daily—White’s Tree Frogs often soak and defecate in it

✅ Use only dechlorinated, spring, or reverse osmosis water—tap water with chlorine or chloramines can harm their sensitive skin.

🌡 Temperature & Lighting

Day Temps:

• Ambient: 72–78°F
• Basking area: 80–85°F

Night Temps:

• Can safely drop to 65–70°F

Heating Options:

• Ceramic heat emitter (CHE)
• Low-wattage heat bulb
• Side-mounted heat mat (not under the tank)
• Always regulate with a thermostat and monitor with digital thermometers

UVB Lighting:

• Optional but beneficial: A low-output UVB (2.0–5.0) can support vitamin D3 synthesis and enhance day/night rhythm
• Always provide shaded areas so frogs can avoid exposure when needed

🍽 Diet & Feeding

White’s Tree Frogs are insectivores with a strong appetite and should be fed a variety of appropriately sized live insects to ensure balanced nutrition.

✅ Staple Feeder Insects:

• Crickets – Active, easy to digest, and encourage hunting behavior
• Dubia roaches – High in protein and easy to gut-load
• Black soldier fly larvae – Naturally high in calcium
• Silkworms – Soft-bodied and hydration-rich
• Earthworms (nightcrawlers) – Excellent staple, packed with nutrients and moisture, ideal for larger frogs

These staples are selected for their digestibility, nutritional content, and ease of gut-loading with vitamins and minerals.

🎁 Treat Feeders (1–2x/week):

• Hornworms – Great hydration and enrichment
• Waxworms and Superworms – High in fat, use sparingly

⚠️ What NOT to Feed:

• ❌ Wild-caught insects – May carry pesticides, parasites, or bacteria
• ❌ Mealworms – Tough exoskeleton can cause impaction, especially in younger frogs
• ❌ Pinkie mice or feeder fish – Too high in fat and phosphorus; not appropriate for long-term health
• ❌ Fruit or vegetables – Frogs are strict insectivores and cannot digest plant matter

Feeding Schedule:

• Juveniles: 5–6 times per week
• Adults: 3–4 times per week
• Feed in the evening or after lights dim—this is when they’re most active

💊 Supplements:

• Calcium with D3: 2x per week
• Calcium without D3: 2x per week
• Multivitamin: 1x per week

Dust insects lightly before feeding. Rotate supplements for well-rounded nutrition and to prevent metabolic bone disease (MBD).

💛 Bonding & Handling

White’s Tree Frogs are one of the few amphibians that tolerate gentle handling. Their calm demeanor and charming expressions make them great for educational handling—just not too often.

Handling Tips:

• Wash and rinse hands thoroughly before touching
• Use wet hands or nitrile gloves to avoid absorbing oils or salts into their skin
• Limit handling to a few minutes
• Support their body and allow them to move on their own
• Handle no more than 2–3 times per week to avoid stress

Frogs can learn feeding routines and may become more visible and interactive over time.

👥 Cohabitation

White’s Tree Frogs are one of the few amphibians that can be housed together, given proper conditions.

✅ Cohabitation Works When:

• All frogs are similar in size and weight
• Enclosure is appropriately sized (tall and spacious)
• Multiple perching, soaking, and hiding spots are available
• You observe feeding behavior and ensure no frog is outcompeted

🚫 Do not house them with other species. Even docile frogs may see smaller animals as food.

🩺 Health Concerns to Watch For

White’s Tree Frogs are hardy, but they require clean, humid environments and varied nutrition.

Common Issues:

• Obesity – Very common; feed a balanced, portion-controlled diet
• Impaction – Often from large prey or poor substrate
• Red leg syndrome – A bacterial skin infection caused by dirty enclosures
• Metabolic bone disease (MBD) – From lack of calcium or vitamin D3
• Retained shed – Can affect toes or limbs if humidity is too low

Prevention Tips:

• Spot-clean daily and deep clean monthly
• Replace water daily with dechlorinated water
• Dust feeders and rotate supplements
• Maintain proper heat, humidity, and airflow
• Monitor waste and appetite regularly

If you notice lethargy, swelling, discoloration, or abnormal behavior, consult an amphibian-savvy exotic vet.

🧠 Final Thoughts

White’s Tree Frogs are relaxed, long-living amphibians with huge personalities. With the right setup and consistent care, they can live for 15–20 years and become a centerpiece of any exotic collection.

Whether you’re starting your first terrarium or building a bioactive tropical setup, Happy Scales & Tails Exotics is your source for healthy animals, trusted gear, and hands-on care guidance.